A Dusty road out

My second day in beautiful Cafayate I visited a couple of vineyards - nothing special - just large scale operations - impersonal. Although I did find some excellent local basil cheese. I hiked to some petroglyphs on the edge of town and sat in cave with the rock-paintings trying to soak up the thousands of years of history.
Next day, went back to Salta and found out my sublessors are bailling on rent for 2.5 months. Fuckers. I have to reconfigure my budget now, but there is little that would halt my travels (except for maybe that nasty STD I picked up in BA). I wandered around Salta the rest of the day and saw the inside of the big, pink cathedral. I like going to these religious monuments for a couple of reasons. I'm a history buff and usually the structures represent the beginning of European conquest in a given area. Also, I'm a practicing devil worshipper doing intelligence work for the dark prince's army. Two birds, one stone.
Afterwards, I went to a museum with Incan mummies on display. These unbelievably well-preserved corpses were originally placed at the tops of mountains hundreds of years ago in northern argentina. One of them nicknamed "The Queen" had a face frozen in horror. Eyes open, jaw agape - she is burned into my memory.
Next day took a bus to Humahuaca - a small town north of Salta on the edge of the Quebrada de Humahuaca - a beautiful gorge that runs for dozens of miles. The Spanish marched down this canyon in the early 19th century during the Argentinean independence war. One Argentine city, Jujuy, was completely razed by the Argentineans to avoid letting the Spanish capture it. Commitment.
The bus trip to Huma was brief but memorable we watched "Bloodsport" as babies screamed. I swear the bus company issued babies with all ticket sales. So many of those snot-nosed, bleary-eyed, stinky, tender....babies.
Found a cheap hostel in Huma and hiked around town on some goat trails and met a couple from Australia/England with whom I'm now travelling.
Huma is like Santa Fe, New Mexico extremely high and dry - close to 2500 meters. Colder than bejesus at night. Adobe structures.
Took a bus to Uquia - a small town famous for its' 17th century paintings of angels holding spanish colonial weapons - remarkable considering the time period they were created - unremarkable otherwise.
Made it across the border to Tupiza, Bolivia, but was halted for an hour near the border by protesters burning tires. I got out just in time. Bolivia is a world apart. People look more indigenous here with wider features and smaller statures, it is a country MUCH poorer than Argentina, but the people are just as friendly. I dig the clothing choices too.
My time in Argentina was spectacular. The country has it all (including significant poverty): deserts, forests, mountains, famrlands, beaches. It is one of the most prosperous countries in South America and will, probably, continue to be. Lovely place. I wish Americans posessed the same political fervor Argentineans have shown me.
If McCain wins I'm looking into Argentine citizenship.