Great Googly Moogly - I'm here!

4-6-08
Buenos Aires, Argentina

After taking a pay cut at my recording studio job I decided to take a long-anticipated trip to South America.

Months ago I had planned to take this trip in September '08 coinciding with the expiration of my duplex lease. But after I got the axe at work I decided to take the trip now rather than wait 4 months.

So here I am. In Buenos Aires, the "Paris of South America." From what little I've seen of the monstrous city of 13 million - this title holds true.

I arrived at the highly modern, glass-walled airport, hopped on a lovely (and cheap) air-conditioned bus and made my way to the city center. Then I continued my journey on foot to the Recoleta/Palermo district where I am renting a room in an apartment for $120/wk. I overestimated my endurance and underestimated my distance. Arriving sweaty and unaware of the day of the week, I greeted Susana the owner of the apartment, a 60 -year old lifelong porteno and abstract painter. She introduced me to my apartment roommate Irene - a 60+ year old Swiss traveller learning Spanish in the Capital. We spoke in broken English/Spanish.

I hopped a bus back to the micro-centro - bought a lighter, two different maps, bottle of water and watched parrots roost in the trees of Plaza de San Martin -walked aimlessly.

I'm staying in Recoleta/Palermo - the second most expensive part of Buenos Aires. Already I regret my decision. Hundreds of ruddy-faced, ex-officio-ed 20-somethings crowd the streets seeking the "true Argentinian" experience. I love to meet fellow travellers, but not be surrounded by them. I believe I will change locations in the city in the coming week.

I met an Australian hipster and an Argentenian gynecologist at a bar. They told me my lonely planet guidebook had failed me. They were right. The bar was filled with nothing but English speakers. God Dammit.

I start Spanish school tomorrow - 4 hours/day, 5 days/wk. for $120/wk. I'm hoping a couple of months of this will prepare me for further travels into Uruguay, Paraguay, Bolivia, Peru, Colombia, and Venezuela. If I can last that long here.

Mother H

P.S. It is surprising how far a few key-words and super-intensive gesturing can take one.